Wine column

An experiment (5/28/2021)

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Wine tasting and rain (5/22/2021)

Life seemed to return to normal for my first London wine tasting in more than a year on 21 May 2021: Delays on the Northern line, spring rain and a bitterly-cold day with gusts of 40mph.

The sense of anticipation was palpable. A chance to watch Surrey versus Middlesex at The Oval while tasting the 27th annual Chianti Classico collection. But rain stopped play for the entire session.

Our tasting was in the India room. Each group was allocated two hours to taste 181 wines. A daunting task. Almost as daunting as the weather through the window.

Cricket “tragics”, mostly badly-dressed older men in scarves and wind-cheaters, looked wistful as they ambled around the ground. The consolations for these lost sheep were warm beer in plastic mugs, and a big screen showing highlights in the gloom.

Inside, the Italian sommeliers who brought the wine dressed far more snappily. This year’s tasting involved a different format. We sat at individual tables and masked somms brought six tastes at a time. I managed to sample 40 of the 181.

It was much more pleasant tasting wine seated instead of the usual standing-room struggle. But the process, because of Covid precautions, was slow.

Similar tastings have already been held in Florence, Chicago and New York, with Munich later this month and and Tokyo next month.

At the end after all the young tannic reds I discovered a 2001 vin santo, a divine creation that helped me forget the weather, the delays and the washed-out cricket. Read more about vin santo here. It was good to be back.

Clever but expensive (5/7/2021)

Here is an unusual way to market wine: Send it into space. A bottle of 2000 vintage Pétrus that spent 14 months on the International Space Station is being auctioned at Christies in May 2021. Estimated selling price is about USD one million, well above the typical price of USD 6,000 for that vintage. Seems like a good margin until you note that travel costs far exceed profits. More here.

Spaced out wine? (3/26/2021)

This is a fascinating story about how bottles of French wine tasted after spending a year in space.

Release of Atomos wines (3/26/2021)

Stefano and Maria Di Nisio have released two special wines known as Atomos. The entrepreneurs and winemakers said they focus on a unique process of destemming. Each berry is meticulously harvested using a three-fingers method which means only the best berries are chosen. It also means only a few hundred bottles are produced each year.

Because of the wine’s acidity and tannins Atomos can be cellared for more than 30 years, assuming they are stored in ideal conditions, Stefano said.

Atomos is based in Abruzzo in central Italy. The red is made from 100 per cent Montepulciano and the white entirely from Trebbiano. Vines are up to 65 years old.

Stefano Di Nisio, from Abruzzo, met Maria Kalafati from Athens while at university in 1994. While visiting Maria’s relatives in Crete in 2010 Stefano noticed three old ladies destemming grapes by hand to make the famous sweet-dry wine sultanina. The berries tasted amazing compared with machine-harvested grapes, Stefano said. This revelation was the origin of the Atomos three-finger process.

Maria and Stefano worked on the project with their friend Giorgos Kolliopoulos, founder of the luxury olive oil, Lambda.

Find out more about Atomos in this video: 

Disclaimer: Stephen Quinn received a bottle of the red to taste as part of this article.

A couple of awards (10/27/2020)

My feature screenplay Art of Revenge won first prize for best dark comedy at the Grim North screenplay festival last December. My short film My Plastic Friend, which I wrote, filmed, directed and edited, was shortlisted for the Mobile Got Talent film festival in July 2020.

Why so expensive? (8/13/2020)

I am keen to buy the Sony A7S Mark III camera. It costs GBP 3,799 in the UK.

Yet the same camera sells for USD 3,499 which converts to £2,640. And in Hong Kong the retail price is HKD 27,000 which converts to £2,668.

A difference between the UK and US/HK of more than £1,100 for the same camera! Why is it so much more expensive in the UK?

Nice to win an award (9/19/2019)

I was one of three writers shortlisted for a prize by Hungarian


Video from Asolo, Italy (7/14/2019)

Something different this week: A video instead of 1,000 words. This video shows the beauty of the Asolo wine region in Italy, north-west of Venice:

Rebirth of native grape (7/6/2019)

Italy’s Asolo wine region, made famous by a war novel and conflict, is resurrecting a grape pulled up 200 years ago. For publication in the week starting 8 July 2019.

Wars have had a major impact on the Asolo wine region north-west of Venice.  Between 1792 and 1802 Napoleon’s army fought a coalition of Austrian, Russian and Italian troops in northern Italy in what became known as Napoleon’s Italian campaign.

In 1801 Napoleon ordered his troops to replace local grapes with French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The aim was to impose French order, and he believed one way to do that was to plant French grapes.

A handful of winemakers in Asolo have been resurrecting the Recantina grape, the only variety native to the region. Armando Serena, president since 2012 of the Consorzio Vini Asolo Montello, said six estates currently grew this grape on a total of about 10 hectares.

Grape expert Dr Ian D’Agata allocated only half a page to Recantina in his huge book Native Wine Grapes of Italy, published in 2014, though he said he would give it more space in his new book, Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, published earlier this year. I have yet to read the new book.

D’Agata said Recantina had been cultivated at least since the 1600s around Treviso in Veneto. It “has always been a highly regarded variety,” D’Agata said in an email. He described it as “a very perfumed wine (blackberry and an intense note of violet) with good tannic structure and acidity” and predicted that Recantina would “almost certainly one day” be included in the blends for Valpolicella and Amarone.

The Giusti estate near Montbello has half of the Recantina vines in the Asolo region, and has planed another six hectares in the past few years. Recantina Montello Colli Asolani has been a DOC since 2012. Asolo is best known for making Prosecco.

Ermenegildo “Joe” Giusti founded Giusti Wines in 2003. The estate’s flagship Recantina is called Augusto, named after Joe’s father Augusto who was born in Venissieux in France and who had a passion for wine.

Giusti01.jpgErmenegildo is shown with the Benedictine Abbey of St. Eustace on the hill above. He  left Italy aged 17 and became a millionaire in the property industry in western Canada as founder and owner of the Giusti Group. Canadians could not pronounce his first name and insisted on calling him “Joe”. He is still called “Joe” in Alberta.

Giusti lives half the year in Canada and the other half in Italy. He currently has 75 hectares of vineyards on 10 properties between the hills of Montello and the Piave River, with plans for another 25 hectares. A new 20 million Euro winery designed by Armando Guizzo is scheduled to open next year with a capacity for 2 million bottles a year.

The Piave River, which runs through the Asolo region and enters the sea at Venice, has played a major role in Italian history. The Piave is called “Fiume sacro alla patria” or “sacred river of the homeland” because the Battle of the Piave in June 1918 was the decisive event of World War I on the Italian Front. A young Ernest Hemingway was an ambulance driver there, wounded while delivering cigarettes and chocolate to the front. The events inspired his novel A Farewell to Arms.

Recantina was in the Asolo area well before Napoleon arrived, Giusti told a small group of journalists visiting his estate in March. “When the French established themselves here, the grape was ripped out and then forgotten for centuries,” he said.

Some Recantina vines survived in the vineyards of the Benedictine Abbey of Nervesa, along with other places around Montello. It was reintroduced at the end of last century. “Joe” Giusti was keen to plant this grape soon after he purchased the first vineyard in 2003 but waited a few years because he already had a thriving Prosecco business.

The first Recantina vintage was in 2014. “Our first vintage was a total disaster. The wine smelled dreadful,” Giusti said. “Oh my God,” I thought then, “Napoleon was right when he decided to rip out this grape. This wine is horrible.”

mirco pozzobon.jpgGiusti told winemaker Mirco Pozzobon, shown amidst the vines, to pour it down the sink, but Pozzobon convinced him to wait. The wine improved and a year later tasted wonderful. “I’m glad I listened to my winemaker,” Giusti said with a smile.

Pozzobon graduated from university in 1997 and made wine in the Amarone region for a decade. His professor at the University of Verona, Roberto Farrarini, was a winemaker with the great Quintarelli estate. Pozzobon has focused his attention on the Asolo region since 2012 and has been winemaking consultant to Giusti since 2014.

Pozzobon matures the Augusto mainly in 2,500-litre Slavonian oak barrels for 12 to 15 months, followed by nine more in bottle. It is a return to a traditional method lost with the arrival of stainless-steel tanks. Pozzobon said he also uses a touch of mulberry, chestnut and cherry oak. Mulberry trees were available because their leaves were needed to feed silkworms. Asolo was a major producer of silk prior to World War 1, and like the cultivation of Recantina that practice is being resurrected.

Viticulturists at the Conegliano Research Centre have identified three distinct versions of the variety: Recantina a pecolo scuro (dark stalk), Recantina a pecolo rosso (red stalk) and Recantina Forner, the last named for the family farm where the vines were found. The grape has been listed in the official Italian register of varieties, D’Agata said.

The Società Agricola Giusti Dal Col, to give the full name, made about 5,500 bottles of Augusto Recantina in 2014. In 2017 the total reached 12,700. Last year Wine critic James Suckling gave the 2015 Augusto 92 points. He awarded 93 points to the 2016 Recantina by neighbours Serafini & Vidotto.

“Joe” Giusti said he had spent almost 2.5 million Euro restoring the Benedictine Abbey of St. Eustace, built in 1052 but destroyed at the end of World War 1. The abbey renovations are precise and a beautiful place to taste wine. In total Giusti is believed to have spent about 52 million Euro on the vineyards, winery and abbey.

He admitted he was not making a profit from wine. “Money means nothing to me. Everything comes back, like a form of karma. It was always in my heart to give something back to the community.”

Giusti05.jpgThe abbey sits above the main estate at Giusti Wines, surrounded by vineyards. On a nearby hill the Montello Military Ossuary holds the remains of Italian soldiers who died during the Battle of the Piave in June 1918. War and wine remain intertwined in this part of Asolo.

A version of my story appeared in Meininger’s Wine Business magazine in April 2019, pages 80-81.

Words: 1,008

Categories: Home page, Uncategorized

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