Lunch at Bouchon in Yountville was impressive, though one pay’s for one’s pleasures. A lobster bisque, a small duck confit, some sparkling water and a glass of pinot noir cost me $47 plus tip. The bisque was the best I’ve tasted for a long time. The small glass of pinot, a 2006 Melville from the Santa Rita hills, was $16. The colour was murky but the taste of strawberries and forest floor funk blended with the duck. Restaurant mark-ups on wine are cruel on the pocket, often treble the cellar price. In Australia we can avoid this by patronising bring-your-own restaurants. In the US the restaurants counter this by charging a $25 corkage fee per bottle!