China Daily wine column #7

The oldest and best wine region in South Africa is around Stellenbosch, a short drive from Cape Town on the country’s southern coast. Vines have been grown there since the late 17th century.

High mountains produce a micro-climate that is three to four degrees warmer in summer and a similar number of degrees lower in winter. This produces a longer ripening period.

The best way to visit the vineyards is to take the famous wine routes, established in 1971. The five current routes take you past 148 vineyards. The high number of vineyards also means that prices are competitive.

Hire a car at Cape Town airport. A good time to visit, if you like crowds, is to attend the Stellenbosch Wine Festival, usually held in June each year.

I visited Warwick Estate in early July, just after the festival. The estate started in 1770 as a fruit farm. The Ratcliffe family planted vines in 1964 and winemaking started two decades late. Norma Ratcliffe became one of South Africa’s first female winemakers.

Warwick’s flagship red, the Trilogy (a traditional Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot), was named in Wine Spectator’s top 100 wines around the world for a second time in 2009.

I tasted the 2007 Trilogy and, though still young, it had a distinct cigar box aroma and tasted of dark chocolate. The wine receives 24 months in French oak (40 per cent new), so it exhibits a dusty tannic structure.

This means Trilogy should be cellared for at least eight years after vintage. At about $34 a bottle from the vineyard it is a bargain.

Another stand-out wine was the Old Bush Vines pinotage 2008, another bargain at about $13. Pinotage is a grape variety conceived at the University of Stellenbosch, a hybrid made from pinot noir and hermitage (aka shiraz).

Pinot noir struggles in the South African climate but the hybrid flourishes because of the influence of the more rugged hermitage.

Another excellent Warwick wine is the Three Cape Ladies, a blend of pinotage, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. It sells for $15. It also receives solid oak treatment, this time 23 months in French oak (40 per cent new). And it should be cellared for up to a decade before being consumed.

Warwick Estate wines are available in China from East Meets West Fine Wines at 988 Shanxi Bei Rd in Shanghai. Stephen Quinn travelled to Cape Town courtesy of the South African Tourist Board.

* “Mountain wines” in China Daily, 31 July 2010, page 12.

Categories: Not home, wine

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